Kyrgyzstan: Powder Mad – Week One

Journey In –

This was Powder Mad’s first trip to Kyrgyzstan — new terrain, new country, and a proper step into the unknown.

For the first week, I (Jem) joined the group from the very start, which made it feel like a real adventure from the off.

I met most of the crew in Istanbul, and we all caught the flight together over to Bishkek. You could feel it straight away — that mix of excitement, curiosity, and a few tired faces from early starts.

And what a crew it was from the outset.

We had some familiar Powder Mad faces along for the ride — John Bennett (7th trip), Tendeka Matatu (2nd trip), and Gavin Steen (3rd trip), our genius web designer.

Tendeka also brought along his Aussie mate Geoff, straight into the mix.

Then the international flavour kicked in…

Three lads over from Ireland — Dave, Dave and Dylan — whose mate Dave Hanley (pro snowboarder) had joined us on a previous Powder Mad trip in Turkey, so they already knew what they were getting themselves into.

Two French freeride chargers — Anthony and Cedric.

And four Swedish chaps that could really rip it up — Hakan, Pers, Daniel, Max (Super Max) — who genuinely didn’t stop grinning or laughing the entire week.

Different backgrounds, different stories… but straight away it just worked.

What a crew.

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We landed early and jumped into a minibus into downtown Bishkek.

First impressions?A bit raw around the edges — but in the best possible way. Real, unpolished, and completely different from anywhere most of us had been before.

That evening, we headed out in search of food and somehow landed in a Georgian restaurant — nice one Dylan.

Classic first-night behaviour… we ordered far too much. Dishes kept coming. Then more. And then a few extra for good measure. The French boys ventured out later for a bit more partying — say no more.

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Just one of those perfect first nights — good food, a few drinks, and the group starting to properly click. At that point, I already knew:this was going to be a good week. The next morning, it was time to head for the mountains. Bags loaded. Coffee down. Into the vans.

We rolled out of Bishkek and began the long drive east — skirting around a huge lake and passing through Karakol, the last real outpost before things get properly remote. Roadside stops along the way — snacks, coffees, stretching the legs — all part of the journey.

And slowly, the landscape just opens up. Bigger valleys.Deeper snow.Less and less sign of anything else. Until finally… we rolled into Jyrgalan. Tired from the drive — but buzzing. Straight away, Antone — our local guide — had everything dialled.

He got everyone sorted with airbags, walked us through the plan for the week, explained the local food, and made sure everyone knew exactly where to be and when for the first day on the CAT. Calm, organised, and completely on it. Because at that point, you know:

You’re in good hands — and the real trip is about to begin.

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First Day – Straight Into It

Jet lag had hit a few of us — sleep was all over the place — but no one was missing day one. We met for breakfast, grabbed our gear, and headed straight for the CAT. First things first — meet the tail guide, quick briefing, and straight into a full transceiver check.

Then we loaded up. Engine running. Doors shut. And just like that… we were heading deep into the mountains in our PistenBully 600.

Now this is where it gets interesting.

Before the trip, a few people had mentioned Kyrgyzstan can sometimes suffer from “sugar snow”. What we found instead…was quite possibly the lightest, driest snow any of us had ever skied or ridden. Proper hero snow. First descent. Silence. Then one by one, we dropped in. Deep, untouched powder.Fresh tracks for everyone.That feeling where every turn just works. We started higher up, opening it up a bit — then dropped into the trees.

And the trees here…

They sit high on the mountain, so you get the best of both worlds — open turns up top, then long, flowing tree runs all the way down to the CAT track. Longer runs than most CAT operations — proper descents. After just three incredible runs — all different, all unreal — we pulled in for lunch.

Lunch spot.

Sun out.Mountains all around. Packed lunches waiting for us — prepared that morning by our guesthouse hosts and loaded onto the CAT. Hot tea. Food. Good vibes. One of those moments where you just sit back and take it in.

Then back up we went.

New zones. New lines. Same ridiculous snow. By the end of the day, we’d clocked six proper runs — each one different, each one delivering. And to finish…

We skied all the way back down to the village at 2,200m.

Waiting for us? A 60ft shipping container… converted into an après bar. Of course it was. Inside — homemade local liquor shots in every flavour you can imagine. Two other CAT groups rolled in as well, including a crew of ski instructors from Méribel — guys Gavin and I actually knew through mutual friends.

And just like that…

Everyone’s together.Drinks flowing.Stories getting bigger. And somewhere in there… The legend of Uncle Misha begins.

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Evenings, Sauna & The Flow of the Week

Dinner was served back at the Baitor Guest Lodge at 7:30. Everyone gathered around one long table — proper family-style — as our hosts, dressed in traditional clothing, brought out a spread of local dishes. Simple. Authentic. Exactly what you want after a full day in the mountains.

From there, the week just flowed.

More incredible snow.A fresh top-up midweek. New zones, new lines, and somehow always fresh tracks in that same light, dry powder. And the routine off the mountain? Just as good.

The après bar became a regular stop — straight after skiing, and often again after dinner. Different groups mixing.Stories being told (and slightly exaggerated).A lot of laughter from everyone. Back at Baitor lodge , things didn’t slow down either.

A wood-fired sauna — built inside a shipping container.A wood-fired hot tub under the stars. Cold nights. Clear skies.Steam rising, snow all around. It was properly cold out there. But we had sun.We had fresh snow. And everything just seemed to line up perfectly.

Final Day – One Last Push

The plan for the final day was simple. One last ski… then down to Karakol for the night — breaking up the long journey and seeing more of Kyrgyzstan. We squeezed in those final turns — making the most of it. Then packed up and rolled out. In Karakol, we checked into a smart new hotel.

Everyone regrouped for dinner.

Some needed the pharmacy.Some needed cash from the ATM.And some… just needed one last proper night out. A few of us headed to a place called The Hut. Like a bikers bar… but for freeriders. And rumour has it — if you’re not a freerider, you’re not getting in.

Another great night. Drinks flowing.Stories from the week getting bigger.And jokes rolling into the early hours.

“An Irish man, a Swedish man, and a Parisian walk into a freeride bar…”

What could possibly go wrong?

The Journey Back – Kyrgyzstan Beyond the Skiing

The next day, I stayed in Karakol, while the group headed back. First stop — Fairy Tale Canyon. Red sandstone formations shaped by wind into wild, storybook-like structures. A completely surreal place. Then an eagle hunting demonstration. Massive golden eagles launching from the arm and locking onto targets with precision. And locals riding horses at full speed, firing arrows and hitting targets without missing. Effortless skill. By this point, it’s clear…

This trip isn’t just about skiing.

It’s about experiencing something real.

Final Thoughts

Kyrgyzstan isn’t polished. It’s raw. Real. Untouched. And that’s exactly why it works. Deep snow. Big terrain. Incredible people.

And moments you don’t forget.

This is just the beginning.

Why This Trip Works

• Small groups, proper guiding, and a relaxed Powder Mad vibe
• Consistent access to long, varied runs with no crowds
• Cultural depth — not just skiing, but real Kyrgyz experiences
• A crew that becomes a tribe by the end of the week

Highlights (Quick Hits)

• First descent in blower powder — silence, then chaos
• Long CAT runs from alpine into perfectly spaced trees
• Lunch in the sun with hot tea and mountain views
• Shipping-container après bar at 2,200m
• Wood-fired sauna + hot tub under the stars
• The Hut in Karakol — freeriders only (apparently)

Powder Mad Life

This is what Powder Mad is about.

Not just skiing.

But the people you meet.The places you find.And the stories you take home.

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