Kashmir last frontier

Kashmir Discovery – Powder Mad in Gulmarg

We know this Powder Mad Chronicle is a little late—but for good reason. As many of you will have seen, tensions have flared once again between India and Pakistan, with Kashmir once more caught in the middle. Despite its political struggles, Kashmir remains one of the most stunning places on Earth: a rugged, romantic land of towering peaks, serene lakes, and snow-covered pine forests that stir the soul.

Earlier this year, the Powder Mad “research team” (a running joke among the crew) headed out on one of our legendary discovery trips—this time to explore Gulmarg, in the heart of the Himalayas.

Fresh from filming and heli-drops in Mestia, Georgia with Powder Mad legends the Edbrooke brothers, Michaël, and Callum “The Machine”, our core crew—myself (Jem), Jamie, Jimbob, and Dougie—rendezvoused in Tbilisi for a short breather. After a few days of urban scouting, we caught a flight to Delhi, India, where we linked up with the one and only Warwick, fresh(ish) from hosting our Turkey Cat Skiing trips.

Jamie and Jimbob hit the Taj Mahal while Dougie, Warwick and I found ourselves roped into a game of cricket with some locals in a Delhi park—one of those random, brilliant travel moments. The next morning, we boarded a flight to Srinagar, Kashmir, where things got real.

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Arrival in Gulmarg

Landing in Srinagar was an eye-opener. After navigating a tangle of porters-who-aren’t-really-porters and a sea of Indian army personnel, we escaped the city and wound our way up the mountain roads to Gulmarg. There, we met our fixer and guide Malek and checked into an old colonial-style hotel—beautifully preserved and surprisingly plush.

After a solid night’s sleep, we ventured out. The next day, it was game on.

First Turns in the Himalayas

The Gulmarg gondola is a two-stage system. Stage one is bustling with local tourists and learners, vendors selling sweets, and makeshift snack stalls (well worth a visit). Stage two, however, is the wild side—lifting you to an altitude of 3,950 metres, with direct access to vast alpine bowls, steep couloirs, and barely another soul in sight.

Our first descent? Left off the top of Stage 2. It had snowed the day before, and we dropped into fresh, untouched powder with barely three tracks ahead of us. These runs are long—three solid laps in a day is good going.

In the afternoon, we eyed a set of wide spines skiers’ right off the gondola. We picked the third one along, but rising valley cloud forced us to wait it out. After 15 minutes of eerie light and radio checks, we descended cautiously, hugging the rock walls and trees for definition. The snow was still dreamy.

Big Altitude, Big Lines

Day two, we pushed higher—hiking above the gondola station to over 4,200m. The views from up there are jaw-dropping, with 6,000m+ peaks on the horizon. We dropped into a fresh line, then returned to explore another untouched couloir Warwick had spotted directly off the top of the gondola. Light, dry snow. Dream conditions.

You don’t realise it until you’re there, but skiing at altitude hits different. Sunburn meets pow turns—and it’s magical.

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Evenings in Gulmarg

Evenings were a surprise highlight. The hotel buffet was a feast for lovers of Asian cuisine, and the staff were top-drawer—old-school professionalism with a great sense of humour. One waiter practically adopted us. Need more naan? Sorted. Fancy trying a mystery dish? He’d load it up.

We eventually found a hotel bar (yes, beers in a dry Muslim region!), complete with sunken seating, ornate décor, and a handful of international freeriders to swap stories with.

Storms, Tree Runs & The Grand Finale

Later in the trip, we scored a huge line known as the Shark Fin, accessible only via a tough hike and worth every step. Then came the storm. Three full days of thundering snow, lightning strikes, and that eerie sound we first thought was an avalanche—it was thunder.

With both gondolas closed, we waited. On our final morning, the first gondola reopened. Malek gave us the call, and we hiked off to the side for some deep tree runs in the swirling snow—hero skiing to finish on a high.

Eventually, we dug out, packed up, and made our way back to Srinagar and onto Delhi. Another epic discovery trip in the books.

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Thinking of Joining Us in Kashmir?

We’re planning Powder Mad trips to Gulmarg for 2026. But a word of advice—this is not for beginners. Kashmir is a serious mountain destination. The terrain is big, steep, and avalanche-prone. You need solid off-piste and backcountry experience, avalanche knowledge, and the right attitude.

But for those who are ready—it’s one of the most special places you’ll ever ski.

See you out there,
Jem & the Powder Mad Crew

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